New Cultural Narratives of Chinese Fashion
如果中国设计师不强调自己的身份,你还能不能认出这是中国的设计?
2022-05-30
T Magazine
The fashion industry, centered around the West, is currently in the post-pandemic era. While Western fashion houses are exploring new paths and expanding their markets globally, emerging designer brands from other regions are striving to enter the mainstream coverage of the four major fashion weeks. After all, everybody knows being recognized means getting a golden ticket to the center of the fashion world. Under such pressure, designers from non-Western backgrounds may easily fall into the trap of "self-exoticism." The author has conducted research on this phenomenon and invited three internationally recognized Chinese brands (M essential / SAMUEL GUÌ YANG / PRONOUNCE) to discuss the cultural narrative pressures they faced in establishing their own brands.
以西方为中心的时尚圈正处于后疫情时代。当西方时装屋另辟蹊径、在全球开拓市场,刚刚崭露头角、来自其他地区的设计师品牌则试图进入四大时装周的主流报道之中。四大时装周对于外来者的魅力或许正在于此,得到它的认可意味着被纳入主流,而主流就是通行证。在这样的压力下,非西方背景的设计师容易陷入「自我异域化」(self-exoticism)的境地。作者对这种现象展开了研究,并邀请三位在国际上获得认可的中国设计师讲述他们在建立自己的品牌(M essential / SAMUEL GUÌ YANG / PRONOUNCE)过程中所面临的文化叙事压力。